We started this next leg of the trip by appeasing mom with a visit to Manzanar. I have spent years teaching literature that emerged from this place in American history, and I was not going to drive by without paying homage. I would have liked more time to walk the grounds and take it in, but I was happy with the time I got. I think what struck me the most, as I stood in the middle of nowhere trying to imagine life for prisoners, is how much of the west we have traveled through that is so well suited to hiding things.
While it was out of context for my little students who are still learning American history, I tried my best to help them understand this egregious decision. We used the beautiful visitors center and the literature there to help them understand and make modern day comparisons. They were interested, compassionate, and full of questions. It was almost as good as being back in the classroom.
After Manzanar, we headed into Death Valley. Let me just mention that not everyone was super pumped about Death Valley, and I wasn’t sure what to expect. Nevertheless, we were going to the desert. We have had to skip Kings Canyon, Lassen, the Sequoias, and other parks due to cold weather, so I was determined. I also feel getting back into adventure and a national park coming off a visit with those we love is good for us.
It didn’t take long to win this crowd over as we kicked off our adventure by stumbling upon a crowd gathered at Rainbow Canyon. Should we pull over and check it out? Yes. That’s what we do now that we have no agenda. The crowd was a group of photographers awaiting the practice runs of the air force’s new F 35. Their name for the canyon is Star Wars Canyon and we felt like we were in a movie. F 35’s came screaming through the canyon and right over our head. It was an experience we will never forget. We thought we’d never top this, but this leg of our adventure kept surprising us with unforgettable moments!
As we drove into Death Valley we really had no idea where we were going to stay. We wanted to be in Furnace Creek, in the mix of everything, but with hook up. No dice. We passed Stovepipe Wells campground and found success on the edge of the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. Our view was breathtaking! We hiked the dunes with a ranger and impressed him with our track hunting skills!
The sheer size of Death Valley at 3,000 square miles meant we had our work cut out for us. When we venture into a park we vow to cover all of it if possible. We started well, at the bottom, 282 feet below sea level. Badwater Basin was so intriguing. From afar you think it is desert sand, but up close it is pure salt!
Our next adventure had us hiking in Golden Canyon. We discovered Desert Holly that got us in the Christmas spirit, stayed hydrated, took selfies, and found ourselves some honest to goodness cracked desert. I am pretty sure we all thought that this was going to be what the whole of Death Valley would look like!
We concluded our day with a hike to Natural Bridge and a drive through Artists Palette, the varied landscape surprising us at every turn. Poor Chance is not allowed on any trails in the national parks, which is a bummer, but we’ve run into such good weather over the last few months he has been able to accompany us in the car and get some exercise in between our hikes. Much better than a day in the RV… which he hates with a passion.
The next day our adventures really took us to places we’d never forget. We took the ranger’s advice to travel to Rhyolite, a ghost town, followed by off roading in Titus Canyon. Shawn was ecstatic. He had been waiting for the perfect opportunity to test out our Jeep Wrangler. We wound our way through rough, gorgeous terrain that got better around each corner. It led us to abandoned mines and forgotten boom towns leaving us to wonder how these prospectors even found it in the first place. We loved imagining these rough towns filled with drifters looking to strike it rich and were astounded by the history of mining for minerals in this valley. The final stretch of the drive led us into a slot canyon for cars. We’ve hiked slot canyons, but we’ve never driven them! This was a first! We videoed the whole thing!
We finished our adventures in Death Valley with a hike on the Salt Creek Interpretive Trail, playing around at Zabriskie Point, learning from rangers at Harmony Borax Works, and enjoying the view of the park from Dante’s View. Ironically, after off-roading all day, it was a short drive through Mustard Canyon that did us in. Our first flat tire!
We tried to leave the next morning, but couldn’t resist exploring the one canyon we had not yet ventured down, Mosaic Canyon. It was breathtaking. I am so sad we had to turn back; I would have loved to do this whole hike! I continue to be impressed with my littlest hikers. They love the challenge of a good hike and keep us entertained for miles with singing, games, leaping, and conversation! This crew has grown up and grown closer with each hike on this trip.
A plus to being in the hottest place on earth was experiencing the park’s busy season in November. Toward mid September we found it hard to find a lot of ranger programs and even got stood up a few times. While we like avoiding the crowds while exploring, it was nice to be back in the mix of countless ranger led hikes and programs. This stop was not even on the list for anyone but me, but I think all would agree that this was a sweet surprise! The unexpected opportunity to off-road, the varied landscapes of the desert, and the constant adventure around every corner made this park one of our favorites.
At this point, I was ready to head back toward the coast with a stop in Joshua Tree National Park when gas prices in the other direction beckoned. I had strong objections to heading back into Nevada and worst of all to Las Vegas of all places with kids, but I agreed.
I mean, how bad could it be…